Monday, October 26, 2026

Revisting the Canon G1X Mark II in 2026

This is the third in a short series of posts, looking at how 'old' cameras can carry on giving in 2026. In this post we are looking at the Canon G1X Mark II: released over 12 years ago, which I purchased in August 2026:


The Mark II is slightly smaller than the Mark I, and replaces the optical view finder with an optional EVF. As the EVF operates on the Canon M3 etc, I already had both Canon EVFs (articulating and not), this was not an additional cost for me.

You can pick up a Mark II G1X for just over 500GBP, and the outline specs of the Mark II are as follows:

  • Sensor: Large 1.5-type (18.7 x 14.0 mm) 12.8-megapixel CMOS sensor
  • Lens: 24–120mm equivalent 5x optical zoom with a fast f/2.0–3.9 maximum aperture
  • Processor: DIGIC 6 image processor
  • Aperture: 9-bladed circular aperture
  • Focusing: 31-point AiAF, Manual Focus Peaking, and a close 5cm minimum focus distance 
  • Screen: Tilt-type 1,040k-dot LCD touch-screen
  • Connectivity: Built-in Wi-Fi and NFC

An additional functionality with the Mark II is its custom Control Rings, which allow independent adjustment of settings like focus, aperture and shutter speed.

As with all my previous Point & Shoot cameras I picked up a custom base plate from Chris over at https://www.hejnarphotostore.com/arca-swiss-camera-plate-canon-g1x-mk2-d028-p/d028.htm


Some may ask why pay the extra for a custom plate? Well, first, Canon in their wisdom put a small raised dot on the base of the camera, supposedly to help find the battery door. Secondly, I wanted to get card and battery access without undoing the plate.

As with the previous posts in this series, the real clincher for why you may wish to consider buying a G1X Mark II in 2026 is its access to CHDK (see more info on the right and this post).

Having got CHDK up and running, it was obvious that CHDK on this camera had not yet been optimised for the EVF. However, in a very short time, Reylap at CHDK had 'fixed' the EVF.

The next task was to 'tweak' my Lua Landscape Bracketing Script, to run on the G1X Mark II. The link on the right now has the October 2026 version of the LBS script.

For those interested in what the LBS's functionality is, here is the help text at the front of the script:

  • Landscape Bracketing Script (LBS)
  • Capture 'perfect' focus brackets, with focus overlap defined in terms of defocus (CHDK) Circle of Confusion blur
  • Focus bracketing strategies are: current position to blur-defined infinity (X2INF); min camera focus to blur-defined infinity (Min2INF); H/x to infinity (H/x2INF);... and Min focus to current focus position (Min2X).
  • Overlap, ie bracket to bracket, is defined in terms of the defocus (CoC) blur, eg CoC/2 means focus brackets 'touch' at a CHDK defocus blur of CoC/2.
  • Exposure brackets may be taken at each focus step, using various schemes: 1Ev, 2Ev or 3Ev steps using -/+ or -/-- or +/++; one ISO at 800 or 1600; or one (Zero Noise) exposure at +4Ev, +3Ev or +2Ev, auto from shadow exposure to an ETTR exposure, a wind bracket where the exposure stays the same... but ISO and shutter speed are adjusted, ie to achieve a faster shutter; and a full auto.
  • You can check the camera's black level and set this value via the menu, eg put the lens cover on and run the script with the check black level option.
  • Black and White level sensitivity can be user set to Normal, Medium or High. White level influences ETTR exposure insurance, ie high skewing the exposure away from 100% saturation.
  • You can also switch on Infinity Brackets that allows you to take an ETTR shot at the infinity focus position, eg for the sky, or capture a simulated ND bracket set, up to a 5 ND, or both.
  • Use Bookends to differentiate the captured bracket set in post (recommended). Note the ND sub bracket will be bookended as well.
  • The script will pause and display info about the option you have selected. You can refocus, with the script recalculating number of brackets... or telling you the infinity defocus blur if you are positioned beyond the hyperfocal.
  • When the script is paused you can switch in and out of Alt mode to change the shutter; however, don't try and change aperture or focal length, as the script will terminate in a controlled way.
  • You can switch off the screen during bracketing.
  • The script will automatically set and reset MF, if not already in MF mode.
  • Press Half Shutter to run the script or MENU to exit script.
  • The script should run on most CHDK cameras, but bits of the code may need tweaking, eg to account for camera specific buttons.
  • Rev 1.195 October 2026 Garry George

Bottom line: the Canon G1X Mark II with an EVF, dedicated plate and CHDK remains a real powerhouse of a camera in 2026...at least for some (slow) photographers ;-)

As usual I welcome any comments on this post or any of my posts. 




































 

 

 

Monday, August 31, 2026

Revisiting the Canon G1X in 2026

This is the second post in a short series, revisiting my old Point & Shoot cameras. This post looks at my G1X:

The G1X is showing its age stylistically: but, as we know, what goes around comes around. It entered the market in 2012 with the following specs:

  • Resolution: 14.3 Megapixels
  • Sensor Size: 1.5-inch type (18.7 x 14.0 mm)
  • Processor: DIGIC 5
  • ISO Range: 100 to 12,800
  • Focal Length: 4x optical zoom, 15.1 – 60.4 mm (28–112 mm equivalent in 35mm format)
  • Aperture Range: f/2.8 (Wide) – f/5.8 (Telephoto)

One of the reasons the G1X remains a great camera, other than its large sensor, is its ability to run CHDK and thus my (in-camera) Lua Landscape Bracketing Script.

As a landscape photographer I'm not that interested in how many frames a second the camera can capture, ie  in this case up to 4.5 fps (high-speed burst HQ mode up to 6 frames), so the camera remains relevant for me. 

The main use case I am interested in is a deep focus high dynamic range scenes: and the LB Script is specifically designed for this and the demonstration test below shows this. 

Unlike the bracketing schema used by some photographers, eg where you would take an exposure bracket set at each focus step, ending up with a lot of images, the LB Script takes all the focus brackets at the manually set exposure for the foreground, ignoring the sky exposure, then, at infinity the script automatically captures a set of sky exposures: either every 2Ev until the ETTR point is reached, or a single ETTR capture. The infinity sky exposure images can then be blended in with the focus stacked image.

As an example, the following shows the finished, post processed, image after LBS captured six focus brackets and one sky bracket. 

After ingesting the images into Lightroom and carrying out the base adjustments, eg NR etc, I post processed the images with the following workflow:

  • Adjust and sync the focus brackets for exposure, as required 
  • Adjust the sky exposure capture(s) to match the focus brackets, ie to help with exposure blending
  • Export the focus brackets to Photoshop and process them into a single, focus blended, image
  • Pop back to LR and export the sky capture(s) to Ps
  • In Ps blend the sky bracket with the flattened focus bracket image
  • Return to Lr and finish off toning etc

As can be seen, the resultant image is a deep focus capture of a high dynamic scene, with all the brackets automatically captured with a 14 year old P&S camera with a very reasonably sized sensor.

BTW you can pick up an excellent condition, secondhand, G1X for about GBP400 in the UK.

As usual I welcome any comments on this post or any of my post. 

Sunday, August 30, 2026

Revisiting the Canon G7X in 2026

As there has been a resurgence in, so-called, Point & Shoot cameras, I thought I would revisit my 10 year old G7X, ie the Mark 1, and see how it performs in 2026 with all the new software we have now.


The G7X  20MP uses a 1″ BSI-CMOS Sensor, has an ISO 125 - 12800 range, and uses a 
24-100 mm (full frame equivalent) F1.8-2.8 Zoom lens. The sensor’s actual size, ie it is not 1 inch as some may think, looks like this, compared to my Canon R:



As for physical size: this is what it looks like compared to my Canon R:

Originally, the main reason I purchased a secondhand G7X was that it could run CHDK Lua scripts, and, in particular, my Landscape Bracketing Script (downloadable on the right). For more on the LBS just search this blog.

So, how does image quality look in 2026, using all the software we have today?

The test I carried out was to use the LBS to create a deep focus bracket sequence and then process it 'just' using Lightroom and Photoshop.

I first set the ETTR exposure using the Canon histogram, having set the aperture to f/6.3. I then focused at the minimum focus distance and slide the camera into focus on my near field test object, the front of a 60mm diameter windfall apple, that the wasps had been enjoying.

I then simply ran the LBS, which captured 12 images to infinity:

In Lightroom I adjusted the first image, used RAW noise reduction, synced to the other images, and did a round trip to Photoshop, where I used Ps to align the images and focus stack.

On my return to Lightroom I finished toning and carried out deconvolution sharpening and, for fun, I used the Lightroom super resolution feature to arrive at this 11074x7368 image:

To show the details captured, the following is a 1 to 1 screen grab on an area of the image:

Bottom line: as a landscape photographer, wishing to use a pocket carrying camera as an alternative to a phone, I remain very happy with my 10 year old Canon G7X; and my Landscape Bracketing Script.

As usual i welcome any comments on this post or any of my posts.

 

 

 

 

Saturday, August 29, 2026

Mega Panos

Those that follow my experiments in photography know I'm rather fixated on creating large, flat stitched, panos.

One of my set ups creates panos that are equivalent to shooting with a sensor some 103mm wide and 24mm high.

This is achieved, using my Canon R, by coupling a Mamiya 645 lens, to a Kipon Mamiya to EOS 30mm (15/15) shift adapter, to a Laowa Magic Shift Converter.

The set up looking like this:

To illustrate the resultant image size and quality, I just took this seven image pano with the above set up, using my 45mm Mamiya 645 (film) lens. I found this number of images covered the various vignetting created by the two shift adapters.The Magic Shift Converter resulting in a system focal length of some 63mm.

Note the above is scaled in pixel size and JPEG quality, from the original 19326x4702,so it can be viewed online.

As far as I'm concerned, the above set up is the ultimate pano arrangement, using 645 lenses and two shifts. Taking a standard 35mm camera, and turning it into a super wide aspect ratio, pano set up.

As usual I welcome any comments on this post or any of my posts. 

  

Wednesday, March 18, 2026

Ultra Wide 'digital XPan'

This post is really an excuse to play around with my new laptop. 

As a lifelong Windows guy, I finally took the plunge and got myself my first Apple Laptop: a MacBook Air M5 with 1TB storage and 24GB of memory.

So, today's experiment was how to create an ultra wide 'digital XPan', using sensor bracketing, and process the result in Lightroom on my new laptop. In fact, the set up converts any 35mm mirrorless full frame (or APS-C) into a semi X-Y shifting ‘technical’ camera set up. 

I used two adapters. First, one that is integrated into the Laowa 15mm f/4.5 Zero-D Shift EF mount lens, with a +/- 11mm shift, with an advertised image circle of 65mm:



Between the lens and my Canon R, I used a 
Laowa EF-RF Magic Shift Converter (MSC), which has the impact of converting the 22mm shift of the Zero-D to just over 30mm.The zero-D image circle is taken up to some 90mm. Thus, by shifting left and right, and taking a centre image, I can realise a flat, digital image that is 66mm x 24mm. It also means, because of the MSC glass, I now have a 15x1.4mm focal length lens, ie 21mm. 
In this experiment I didn't shift the MSC, which I could have done by 20mm, ie +/- 10mm, in either the horizontal or vertical direction. For example, creating an 86x24mm digital, flat stitched, image. Note, some vignetting will occur if shifting orthogonally, but this will be camera specific. 

The advantage of using the above adapters, is that their shifts are controlled by a precision rotating mechanism.

Of course using the Zero-D with the Magic Shift potentially can't be ignored in terms of image quality, but as photography is subjective, let's look at a test I just carried out.


The test stitched image is 12473x4474, which at a Canon R pitch of 5.36 microns, gives us a near perfect XPan digital emulation, ie 66.85mm x 23.98mm. Note, in this test I only shifted the Zero-D. 

But what about image quality, especially in the corners?

The following are crops from the four corners, that I think look OK, ie noting that there is no distortion correction applied in Lightroom:





So, there you have it, in addition to using Mamiya 645 lenses to create the digital sensor equivalent of an XPan, I can now carry around a 21mm digital XPan or an X-Y shifting camera, thanks to two Laowa technologies.

As usual I welcome any comments on this post or any of my posts.

Friday, February 27, 2026

Characterising an unknown lens through laser ray tracing

In the last few posts I've described how one can characterise any lens, by estimating its cardinal points through laser ray tracing. In this post I'll give a real world example of how and why I do it.

As a photographer who likes using old medium format film lenses and sensor bracketing, to create XPan, negative size equivalent, digital captures, I make use of Mamiya 645 lenses, in my case: 35mm, 45mm, 80mm and 150mm. The PhotonsToPhotos Optical Hub does not hold any information on Mamiya 645 lenses.

My favourite lens is the 45mm 645 Mamiya, which, using various adapters, allows me to capture a flat stitched digital negative as if taken with a camera with a 86x36mm sensor. From which I can crop a digital XPan equivalent 617 format image.

The first step is to put the lens at infinity and measure the focal length using extension tubes, which in this case came out at 45.9mm.

I also estimated the minimum focus distance of the lens from the sensor plane, ie  433mm.

I then took an image of the exit and entrance pupils and estimated a pupil magnification of 1.67.

The final measurement was to estimate the on axis entrance pupil position, relative to the rear flange surface of the lens, using the laser leveller technique:

From the above we can estimate this as 72mm. To this we need to add the Mamiya 645 focal flange distance of 63.3mm. Resulting in the on axis entrance pupil being located some 135mm from the sensor plane.

Knowing this location means we know the no-parallax point of the lens, focused at infinity, relative to the sensor plane.

From all the information I then used the PTP Thick Lens Hub to create the following model of the lens:

We also know that the hyperfocal distance is measured from the entrance pupil, so we can now characterise the depth of field scale on the lens by using a simple hyperfocal bracketing model, see here, by counting the number of rotations, ie images needed to cover from the hyperfocal down to the minimum focus distance:

The above also shows the infinity focusing zone, between H and mH, where we can dial in the any optical blur we wish at infinity, by taking an addition focus bracket, with the ‘best’ additional one being at or close to ‘infinity’. For landscape photography on a full frame camera, focusing at, say, 10 times H, is practically infinity, ie a 30/10 = 3 micron blur, if using a CoC of 30 microns. This is typically around the size of a single photosite. Thus showing, for a wide angle lens, say 15mm, shooting at f/10 and using a quality CoC of 15 microns, the (rule of ten) hyperfocal is at some 1.5m and thus ‘practical infinity’ is only 15m away, ie giving an infinity blur of 1.5 microns.

Using the above leads to the following focus bracketing model:

Which in turn leads to the following simple equation we can use to help characterise any depth of field scale, or create a new one based on a CoC desired for focus bracketing:

We can now set x to the minimum focus distance from the entrance pupil, ie 433 - 135 = 298 mm in this case; H is the hyperfocal distance as measured from the entrance pupil, ie (f*f)/(N*c) + f; and n is the number of focus bracketed images we need to take from the hyperfocal to the minimum focus distance, at a given aperture (N). The above then allows us to estimate the circle of confusion baked into the depth of field scale from: (f*f)/(N*(x*(2*n-1)-f).

In this case, at f/22, by rotating the lens, I did a quick estimate of the number of focus brackets (n) at 3.6, using masking tape attached to the lens: 


Using masking tape and our simple equation also allows us to create any depth of field scale we desire, ie at any CoC we decide to use for focus bracketing. Plus we can add in the focus points, as we focus down from the hyperfocal, (green dots), ie halfway between the DoF marks:

The above, DIY, depth of field scale has everything we need for landscape photography. We know where the CoC defined hyperfocal is located, ie the first green dot on the right; we know where to focus bracket down from infinity, ie at H, H/3, H/5 etc; and finally we know our infinity focusing zone at the CoC we decided to use for focus bracketing, ie between the first green dot, at the focus bracketing H, and infinity.

Feeding in all the data results in a CoC used for the Mamiya 645 45mm depth of field scale, using a focal length of 45.9mm, at some 53 microns. Using the quoted focal length of 45mm, I would get a CoC of 51 microns. These numbers may be compared to using the 'standard' full frame 30 microns CoC at the Mamiya 645 nominal crop factor value of 0.62. ie just over 48 microns.

As for using this information in the field, using the Rule of Ten (see link on the right), the hyperfocal distance at 45mm focal length is some 4.5m at f/10 and at a CoC of 45 microns. Thus at, say, a CoC of 15 microns, the hyperfocal is some 4.5*3, ie say 15m away. If I see there is a point of focus in the scene at, say, 5m away, I know I need to insert a focus bracket at about H/3, giving me a near depth of field at that focus of H/4, ie covering my 5m point of interest. But I also know the DoF scale uses a CoC of some 50 microns, which will likely create a focus gap if I use the f/10 DoF marks, thus I'll likely use the f/5.6 marks. As I say, all pragmatic and all calculable in my head.

Bottom line: I hope this post has been useful to others, but, as always, I wrote it for my own record, but freely share it. 

As usual I welcome any comments on this post or any of my posts. 

 

 

Monday, February 23, 2026

Laser Ray Tracing: Benchmarking

In the last post I outlined the basic approach to using a laser line leveller to help identify the cardinal points of an unknown lens. The basic workflow being:

  1. Set your lens to the required focus, ie magnification, and, for a zoom, the required focal length;
  2. Using extension tubes measure the focal length (F) and note the magnification (m). For example, at infinity m = 0. You can also accept a quoted focal length;
  3. Take two in focus images of the aperture, one of the entrance pupil and one of the exit pupil. Calculate the pupil magnification (p);
  4. Align a ruler along the axis of the lens, ideally at/near the centre line of the lens; 
  5. Using a laser leveler (ideally two if you have them), take images of two laser lines that point to (near) the (on axis) entrance pupil and the rear flange surface of the lens. Try and position the lens rear flange over the centre of the camera, eg iPhone, taking the picture;
  6. Ingest the images into (say) Photoshop and rotate all the layers so the lens axis is horizontal (convention dictates the exit of the lens is on the right;
  7. Using Photoshop guidelines and the line tool, identify the position of the on axis entrance pupil and the flange surface;
  8. Using the ruler locate the sensor location, ie for a Canon EOS lens, 44mm from the lens flange surface;
  9. Measure the distance from the sensor to the entrance pupil (k) and use the following expression to estimate the lens hiatus or internodal distance (I): k - 2*F + F*(1/p - m);
  10. Using the PhotonsToPhotos  Thick Lens Optical Bench, enter F, m, p, I and the infinity aperture (N) of interest into the calculator.

In order to show the workflow, in this post I'll look at my Canon 24-105mm F4 IS USM lens and set it to 24mm infinity focus, to compare it to the lens in the PTP database.

In the first image above we see the optical axis (red) ray in the top image, together with a ray helping to estimate the location of the (on axis) entrance pupil. In the second image we see two arbitrary rays helping to locate the lens rear flange surface. The third image is a composite view.

The final step is to add a few Photoshop guides, and using the line tool, trace out the laser rays to identify the on axis entrance pupil, the lens rear flange, and, finally, the sensor, ie, in this case 44mm from the lens rear flange surface:

From the above we can estimate the entrance pupil is 76mm from the lens flange, which leads to the entrance pupil being 76+44 = 120mm from the sensor; giving us k.

From the images taken of the pupils, the pupil magnification is about 4.2. As I set the lens to 24mm focal length for this test, and as I wish to compare with the PTP data base, in this case I chose to use the PTP focal length of 24.93mm. This leads to a calculated internodal of 76.1mm.

Putting all the information into the PTO Thick Lens Optical Bench results in the following:

Which can be favorably compared to the PTP Optical Bench:


So, there you have it, in about 15mins you can map out any lens, simply using a DIY laser leveller and a few iPhone images.

As usual I welcome any comments on this posts or any of my posts.